1. The
soiled environment. The urine-soiled area needs to be thoroughly cleaned with
an enzymatic cleaner, such as Nature’s Miracle, to eliminate future visits. The area also
may need to be closed off from the offending cat. Plastic totes, double
sided tape, foil, furniture placement, potted plants, and invisible fencing may
all be used to prevent access. If
the specific area is not easily identified, a black light can help locate
soiled spots.
2. The
litter box. Make sure the box is roomy and comfy for everyone who needs
it. Obese cats and large cats need more space. As a rule, sides,
liners and covers are bad. Kittens, older cats and the infirm may have a
hard time negotiating sides on the box. Liners are just annoying when kitty
tries to scratch around and cover feces and
urine. Box covers trap smells and block kitty’s view of intruding other
cats. As a cat, one typically likes a 360-degree view while eliminating.
3. The
box placement and number of boxes. As stated before, one box per cat,
plus one, is recommended; and make sure that there is a box on each level of
the house. Put the boxes in well lit, quiet areas away from food and
water but close to where the cats spend the majority of their time.
4. Pick
the right litter. Most cats prefer fine-textured, unscented litter, several
inches deep. If in doubt, try litter box samplers. Put out several
different boxes with several different types of litter - clay, sand, paper
litter, or even soil. Let your cat cast its vote with urine and go with
the demonstrated preference.
5. Cleanliness.
As a basic rule of thumb, scoop the box daily. This may not be enough in
multi-cat households if one box is particularly popular. If you ask the
cats, they would each want a personal litter box valet that kept the other cats
out of the area, looked away while they used the box, handed them a kitty treat
as they exited the box, and then removed any offending material
immediately. Always empty and thoroughly
clean boxes every 1-2 weeks, depending on use.
6. Avoid punishment. Never physically punish your cat for
inappropriate elimination. Not only is that ineffective, but
it quite likely will make things worse. Punishment will create more
anxiety and cats will not connect the crime to the punishment.
7. Medical
treatment. If your veterinarian uncovers medical issues such as drinking
more water or urinary tract infection, treatment plans will need to be
determined and implemented.
8. Anxiety
and urine spraying. Anti-anxiety medications may be utilized. Drugs
such as Prozac, amitryptylline, and busprinone can be prescribed. Medication use would need to
be discussed with your cat’s doctor. Such therapy is often life-long,
although withdrawal of medication may be considered after long periods of good
behavior. We may also use pheromone sprays, such as Feliway, to promote
positive feelings in the cats when they enter the area involved.
Feline inappropriate elimination is a frustratingly common problem. It is
imperative to act quickly when it happens. The longer such a problem goes
on, the more difficult it may be to correct. Once the offending cat is
identified, take him or her to your veterinarian for a thorough physical
examination and have a discussion about your options. Once medical
disease is ruled out, together we may tackle the many issues discussed here and
formulate our best plan. With thought, perseverance, environmental
manipulation and appropriate medications, we can often help.Timothy R Kraabel, DVM, DABVP (Canine/Feline Practice)
Outreach Chairman, American Board of VeterinaryPractitioners
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